Introduction

What is an overlocker is one of the top questions we get asked here at the baby lock shop and at my dressmaking classes. 

You might be new to sewing or have had a break from sewing and it’s the new ‘in-thing’ you keep hearing about from other sewers and across social media. Are you wondering what is it all about and how can it help your sewing?

 SEW, read on and I will tell you all about the exciting world of overlockers.

What an overlocker isn’t

The first thing to say is that an overlocker, or serger as they are called in America, is not a sewing machine in the traditional sense. Yes, it sews but in a completely different way. It looks different and they may look scary if you’ve not used one before, I promise they're not, but what you can achieve is amazing. 

It isn’t just to neaten raw edges

Regardless of what you have heard, overlockers aren’t just for neatening raw edges and they aren’t as complex as they may first appear – I promise!

 An overlocker is a game changer for sewing stretch and jersey fabrics

 Ever sewn a seam on your sewing machine on jersey for it to snap when you wear it? That’s because there is no stretch in the seam. Move over sewing machine, an overlocker is your new jersey weapon of choice. An overlocked seam will stretch and stretch and stretch …… it will never snap.

 Overlockers look different – here’s the technical bit

They are a different shape to a sewing machine. They can use one or two needles, they don’t have a bottom bobbin, they can have 2, 3 or 4 threads on the top of the machine andyes, they do have a knife - two blades in fact and a differential feed which we’ll come back to later.

On a baby lock overlocker, you will also get a stitch width dial in addition to a stitch length dial and a stitch selector lever like you’ve never seen on a sewing machine.

How does an overlock sew?

Forget what you know about a sewing machine. The same rules don’t apply. I think of it as a knitting/sewing machine with scissors!

 In the simplest of terms, on overlocker sews a seam with the left-hand needle, sews a safety seam with the right-hand needle, trims off any excess fabric from the edge of what you are making and the two looper threads knit together on the edge the fabric to stop it fraying – a bit like zig zagging a raw edge, but much much neater. 

Wow, that’s 3 sewing steps in one go!

What are the loopers?

The looper fingers sit inside the machine and ‘knit’ the threads together on the edge of the fabric.

The needles – the seam and the safety seam holding the looper threads in place

An overlock can use one or two needles depending on which stitch you are doing. Two needles sit next to each other a bit like a twin needle on a sewing machine.

 

The stitches - 3 thread, 4 thread, narrow and rolled hemming, when would I use them?

3 thread wide – one needle on the left is used.  A good option if you are just neatening the edge as the extra security of the safety seam (right hand needle) is not needed 

3 thread narrow – only the right-hand needle is used and it’s a bit of a game changer when it comes to neatening the edge of very fine fabrics like chiffon, georgette, cotton lawn and viscose. The narrow width of the overlocking is more in proportion with the weight of the fabric giving a smoother, neater finish.

4 thread – the workhorse of an overlocker! Used for neatening raw edges but it’s so much more than that. Woven and jersey fabrics can be overlocked together without having to use the sewing machine first. A great way to make jersey garments, woven tops, PJ’s or anything where a narrow but strong seam is needed. 

Rolled hemming – If you want a neat, narrow, strong and decorative edge on fine fabrics like chiffon, overlocker rolled hemming is the way ahead. The overlocker trims off the excess fabric, rolls it under and encases it in a narrow, close-together stitch. So much easier than trying to roll a hem on a sewing machine. Add decorative threads to the upper looper for a stylish edge. 

Narrow hemming – looks very similar to rolled hemming but the fabric is left flat and not rolled underneath. The choice for slightly thicker fabrics.

It’s all about the stretch

What were overlockers invented for? Not just speeding up manufacture with those 3 steps in one, but for stretch fabrics. Could we imagine a world without stretch and Lycra? A sewing machine, whilst you can sew jersey and stretch on it, doesn’t always do the best, neatest or easiest job. Overlocking is designed to stretch and stretch and stretch!

The differential feed

Unlike a sewing machine that has one set of feed dogs, an overlocker has 2 sets. Why is the differential feed important? It perfects your seams flattening them out and preventing waving or puckering. This function is fabulous for jersey and bias-cut seams. Sewing these fabrics with an overlocker is so much easier and looks better with a professional, industry standard finish. 

Did you know the differential feed on the baby lock overlockers can be used for gathering as well?

What makes baby lock overlockers different to other brands? 

If you have ever used another brand of overlocker, you may well have encountered the dreaded threading. Whether starting from scratch or using the pull-through method, it can be tricky and frustrating.

But with a baby lock threading traumas are a thing of the past with their air-threading looper system. Lock the tubes, pop the end of the thread into the threading port (hole), push the button or lever and whooooosh the threads are through! The tube encased threads rarely snap.

Baby lock also eliminate tension tantrums with their automatic tension*. In fact, there are no tension dials at all. The sensor under the foot reads the thickness of the fabric and delivers a perfectly balanced stitch every time regardless of the weight of the fabric.                 

I’ve used lots of overlocker brands and I think baby lock’s build quality makes it the Rolls Royce of the overlocker market. Each machine is hand built and goes through 22 checks before leaving the factory. baby lock are so confident in their product they offer a 2+2 year warranty.

Will an overlocker replace my sewing machine? 

No, not completely. Although you can use accessories like the baby lock 5mm piping foot to insert zips, there are techniques more suited to a sewing machine.

How can I get even more from my baby lock overlocker?

Firstly, by getting some tuition! I always offer my new owners a FREE introductory session with their machine. This can be in person at the studio or via Zoom. 

I don’t just leave you to it after that. I am always on-hand if you need any help and have fun workshops where we put our machines through their paces.

No nonsense accessories for quick, easy, professional standard sewing 

Whether it is inserting piping, gathering or adding elastic, baby lock has a range of easy-to-use additional feet and accessories for professional standard sewing – and creativity. 

What shall I do next?

Get in touch to arrange a demonstration or chat with me about how a baby lock overlocker can revolutionise your sewing! 

I’m looking forward to baby lock overlocking with you!

Jane 

 

Author

Jane White, City & Guilds Fashion Adv. PGCE. 

Jane is qualified with City & Guilds in design, pattern cutting and couture sewing to degree level and has been sewing as long as she can remember. Her journey took off with Great Aunt Margaret’s hand Singer sewing machine aged 9. Technology has advanced a lot since then but her passion for making garments and textiles that are a bit different and her love of sharing practical skills, supporting sewers and loving her baby lock machines is at the heart of what she does.

 

 

 

*except the Enspire