I know I was baffled by the differential feed (DF) when I got my first overlocker.  What does it do? Do I need it? How does it work? If you're thinking the same thing I will try and explain what it does and why it is an important setting for stitching perfection.

The DF operates the feed dogs which are located under the presser foot and operated by the lever on the right of your machine. They are what moves your fabric through the machine. 

Unlike a sewing machine’s one set of feed dogs, an overlocker and cover stitch machine have 2 sets. The back set are fixed but the front set can be set to operate at different speeds. 

Set on N both sets work at the same speed. 

With the lever moved down to between 0.6 and 0.8 the front set work slower than the fixed back set and stretch out your fabric. Useful if your overlocked edge is being curved inwards on N and perfect for a lettuce leaf edge. 

Set your differential feed between 1.3 and 2 and the front set will work faster pulling in your fabric. A great tip if your fabric is coming out wavy especially on jersey and bias-cut seams.

Did you know you can use the DF to gather? 1.5 will gather up 1 1/2 times the amount and 2 will gather twice as much fabric.

You can also gather using the DF in conjunction with the GATHERING FOOT. Feed your 2 layers of fabric through the foot together to gather the bottom layer to the top layer which remains flat. Super easy and quick for those lovely, gathered styles.

I hope that helps and if you have any questions about your machine, you are thinking of adding a baby lock overlocker to your workroom, or you would like to chat baby lock just get in touch. 

Thank you for reading and happy baby lock sewing.....

Jane

Author

Jane White, City & Guilds Fashion Adv. PGCE. 

Jane is qualified with City & Guilds in design, pattern cutting and couture sewing to degree level and has been sewing as long as she can remember. Her journey took off with Great Aunt Margaret’s hand Singer sewing machine aged 9. Technology has advanced a lot since then but her passion for making garments and textiles that are a bit different and her love of sharing practical skills, supporting sewers and loving her baby lock machines is at the heart of what she does.